Ruby Hammer: "The Day I Stop Feeling Nervous Is Probably the Day I Should Stop"

Supermodels. Secrets. Still learning.

Ruby Hammer MBE has been doing makeup since before most of her clients were born, and she is still surprised by what she finds in the chair. Co-founder of the ground-breaking Ruby & Millie, voice on inclusion long before the industry caught up, and the woman behind some of the most iconic faces of the last three decades, she talks to theALLBRIGHT about the chair, the industry, fear and what a genuinely good day looks like.

The Nineties are so mythologised now. What we forget is that we didn't know what we were living through at the time. It's only with hindsight that you can look back and identify it as the age of the supermodels. The industry and the world were completely different back then. There was no social media, no constant stream of commentary and no instant access to information. We set out to create the kind of brand we wanted to see in the world, based on our own beliefs and experiences.

We always felt beauty should be inclusive, accessible and aspirational at the same time. To us, those things weren't mutually exclusive. Our make-up brand Ruby & Millie was pioneering in spirit because we weren't trying to copy anybody. Beauty should reflect the people who use it. That felt obvious to us then and it still does now. We didn't approach having a wide range of inclusive base colours as a trend, a statement or even necessarily a commercial decision. It simply felt like the right thing to do.

Being a young mother while building a business and career was overwhelming, relentless and incredibly demanding. What I've learned is that there is no one-size-fits-all approach. Every career, every family and every circumstance is different. I was fortunate to have support around me. My late Mum was a huge help, and my former husband was very supportive. One of the biggest lessons I've learned is that you have to accept help when it's offered. You cannot do everything alone, nor should you try to.

The level of trust between make-up artist and the woman being made up always strikes me. The willing to put themselves entirely in your hands and trust your expertise, your artistry and your ability to present them in the best possible light. You learn a lot about how someone operates. Some people want complete control, others are happy to collaborate, and some are able to completely let go and trust the process. Those small interactions tell you an awful lot about a person's character, confidence and generosity. The make-up chair can be a very revealing place.

“I'm not trying to change the world or your face… I want to simply leave you feeling like your best self, no matter who you are”

If our Ruby & Millie approach encouraged others in the industry to think more seriously about inclusivity, that's fantastic. We weren't trying to lead a movement. We were simply creating a brand that reflected our values. I'm incredibly proud that people still speak about Ruby & Millie with such affection and respect. Its impact is still evident today. Like many partnerships, there came a point where the vision was no longer aligned between all parties involved. Sometimes you simply reach the end of a chapter and realise that continuing no longer feels right. That was ultimately what happened.

One moment that remains incredibly special was the first time I shot for British Vogue. I'd already worked for international editions, but British Vogue felt different. When I got the call, I barely slept. I felt excited, nervous and grateful all at once. Looking back, it wasn't about the magazine itself as much as what it represented. I had come into the industry without formal training, learned on the job, worked incredibly hard and suddenly found myself contributing to a publication I'd admired for years.

Today anyone can access techniques, tips and education online within seconds, which is wonderful in many ways. Back then, knowledge was far less accessible. The barriers were higher when I started, but there was also a certain magic and mystery to the industry that doesn't exist in quite the same way now.

I'm not trying to change the world or your face… I want to simply leave you feeling like your best self, no matter who you are. I've never been particularly interested in trends that encourage people to constantly change themselves. The trends I've always valued are the ones that empower people to understand themselves better rather than encouraging endless reinvention.

“If I had to choose just one, receiving my MBE from the late Queen in 2007 stands out”

If you'd asked me years ago what life would look like at 64, I don't think I would have imagined being this busy. I'm still working at a level I love, but my career looks very different now. Alongside make-up artistry, I'm a brand founder, collaborator, content creator and mentor. There are so many dimensions to my work that didn't exist when I first started.

I genuinely thought I'd be retired by now and to still be so busy and working is something I’m incredibly grateful for.

Shared values matter just as much as commercial success. The right partnership can amplify everything you're trying to achieve. Looking back, greater alignment around the long-term vision might have created a very different future for the brand.

A good day now is about balance. It's about making progress, being present for the people I care about and finding moments to recharge. The biggest difference is that I now have far more on my plate - and I have to be much more intentional about creating space for myself within it.

It's very hard to capture a single moment from a career that has spanned more than forty years. There have been so many extraordinary experiences and people along the way. If I had to choose just one, receiving my MBE from the late Queen in 2007 stands out. It wasn't just recognition for my work as a make-up artist; it felt like recognition for all the risks and passion that had brought me there.